Another snap at Snape. I had planned to sail further north, but the weather wasn't right, so I nipped in through Orford Haven and, once again, found myself here.
So, school is done for another year and the plan, as usual, is to do as much sailing as possible. There is a plan for a longer cruise and that may or may not happen - entirely weather dependent. If it does, these pages will be the first to report it. In the mean time, the past few days have been a chance to shake off term time and grab a taste of some sea air!
69.3nm
Sunday 23rd July
The galley in action...
Monday 24th July - trip to Snape
And then it rained...
Tuesday 25th July - return to the Orwell via Old Harwich
Following yesterday's rain, an early start at 5.30am, and a pleasant return trip out through Orford Haven and back down the coast to the Orwell. Winds were NW F3-5.
I love the shapes of these shifting sands - view towards Orford Haven from within.
The entrance to Orford Haven always has its challenges. It was good to leave today without using the engine - although conditions were relatively calm, the sea was still very troubled by testing overfalls just beyond the red Oxley navigation marker. Still, as ever, Daisy II took it all in her stride and, with full main alone, I sailed out to sea and down the coast.
There's plenty of room for us both...
Surprisingly vacant Halfpenny Pier
Daisy II returns to the Orwell (photos courtesy of Dave)
Another summer holiday draws to a close with a valedictory cruise with several aims which could be distilled into a single maxim, namely to sail as far as possible for as long as possible! Every cruise is different. I've frequently sailed along The Wallet, between Harwich Haven and the Blackwater estuary, but never beginning in the south and heading north. I wanted to tackle the tricky entrance to the Ore at Orford Haven, reach Snape, anchor around Havergate island, cover at least 100nm, try and push the annual mileage through the 600 barrier. The trip was an unqualified success unless one calls falling short on the last aim by 0.3nm!!
114.6nm Red - Day 1; yellow and lilac - Day 2; white and black - Day 3; green - Day 4
Tuesday 30th August - Bradwell Marina to River Ore
Leaving Bradwell
Launching about an hour after HW, the ebb tide helped ease the trip up The Wallet. Winds were generally light, south easterly F3/4. I had to put in a tack off Jaywick but, otherwise, this was a starboard reach in glorious sunshine almost all the way.
Tall ships, off Walton on the Naze, heading the opposite way
The fun, as might be expected, happened off Orford Haven. The tide had already turned by then and had been flooding (heading down the coast) for an hour. In itself, this creates choppier conditions. However, it seemed that the ebb from the Ore seems to continue for a while beyond this, and there were exceptionally choppy overfalls at the Orford Haven Buoy. I reduced from full sail to main only off Bawdsey and then, given the conditions, resorted to engine alone for the final trip into the Ore - a little disappointing, but it's best not to take risks. Once in the Ore, as is always the case, things were delightfully calm, once again - belying the chop which preceded this.
Inside the Ore, looking back towards the entrance, known as 'Shingle Street'
Today's anchorage was a place mentioned in the charts as 'Abraham's Bosum' - nestled in the lee around the back (west shore) of Havergate Island. I have used this location several times before but not for a few years and it was good to return.
Day 1: 34.6nm; Bradwell Marina to Havergate Island, River Ore
Wednesday 31st August: Rivers Ore & Alde, return trip to Snape Maltings
Winds were from the SW today, as is often the case, light in the morning and rather more testing as the day progressed. The objective was to use the lunchtime tide to reach Snape Maltings and return with the ebb. The associated video footage with this cruise shows the delightful beginning of the day as I sailed around the north end of Havergate Island to rejoin the Ore as it turns towards Orford. The river from thereon to Aldeburgh is characterised by steep mud banks and the view only really returns once the Ore becomes the Alde (never quite sure where the one stops and the other starts - the charts mark it as the Alde south of Aldeburgh whereas I tend to think of the Alde as beginning once the river turns sharply to the the SW at Aldeburgh). The winding, increasingly shallow stretch of the Alde as it progresses beyond Aldeburgh, towards Iken and Snape is a continuing delight... although, as stated, the mud bottom is never far away...
I sailed as far as Iken Church, and then motored up to Snape where I stopped for lunch and then turned round.
Snape panorama.
Winds having been light on the way upstream began to strengthen on the return trip and bigger gusts started to push their way across Mansion Reach. By the time I turned into Island Reach just short of the moorings at Aldeburgh, I had to reduce sail furling both mizzen and jib, and proceeding with full main. This worked exceptionally well for a long hard beat all the way back to Havergate. There was no hurry, I had the tide with me and, despite some steeply pitched waves (wind over tide) which had a tendency to stall progress, particularly during when going about, I decided to press on sailing under main. In total, this pushed the number of tacks for the day to exactly ninety - it takes a nerdish sailor to count them all, in respect of which the track recorded by the GPS rather comes in handy!
As ever, in such conditions, photography is relegated to 'unnecessary' status. It was only when passing Orford that the wind abated, and full sail was once more used to push me back to the point at which the day had started.
Sunset, safe in 'Abraham's Bosum'.
Day 2: 28.5nm; 'Abraham's bosum to Snape Maltings (yellow).... and back (red). 90 tacks in a day...!
Thursday 1st September: River Ore to River Colne
The choice was whether to return south today or tomorrow. As ever, the forecast was the deciding factor and a prediction of strengthening winds for tomorrow left little doubt that today was going to be the best option for a lengthy sea passage.
In contrast to conditions experienced when entering the Ore a few days previously, Orford Haven was utterly calm today.
Calm seas off Orford Haven as sunbeams reach through early morning cloud cover.
Leaving soon after dawn, using the last of the ebb from the Ore and immediately picking up the flood, a light Westerly breeze propelled Daisy II south once more. I was crossing the shipping lane off Harwich at a busy time - around 8am but managed to squeeze across prior to a couple of departing ferries.
A couple of Thames Barges had departed from Harwich and headed south with me. One motored and passed by, the other sailed and fell further back.
Thames barge motor-sails by, pictured off Walton on the Naze.
The wind dropped considerably off Clacton so that, against what little vespers there were, I decided to drop sails and press on under motor. Rounding Colne Point, a SW F3/4 breeze helped me sail up the Colne. Today's objective was to reach and utilise a new public jetty at Wivenhoe. I stopped here and stepped a shore to explore for the first time, utilising the pub!
The new public jetty at Wivenhoe. Hats off to the local council for putting this in place - it's good for visiting yachts people to be able to step ashore!
After lunch, a brief foray into Brightlingsea Creek preceded the usual reach across Pyefleet to a well worn anchorage. 41nm in one day!
Day 3: 41.0nm; River Ore to River Colne (white) and sailing in River Colne (black)
Day 3: detail of sailing in River Colne to Wivenhoe; return to Pyefleet Channel
Friday 2nd September: return to Bradwell
Dawn over Brightlingsea
The forecast wasn't incorrect. Once the sun had risen, winds strengthened and, whilst the beat out of the Colne was pleasant enough, the well known Blackwater chop - SW winds over the flood tide - made conditions too challenging for me. I was tired, the objective was really to return to base, take the boat out and tow home. Slightly more appealing weather might have tempted me to spend a morning sailing around the Blackwater area but, given the conditions as they presented themselves, I furled the sails off Bench Head, and motored across to Bradwell to bring an end to this cruise and a fantastic summer holiday of sailing!
A quiet bank holiday Monday anchorage off Iken Cliff on the River Alde, just short of Snape (day 2)
Another half term holiday, another opportunity to wind down from work; what better way than cruising. Nowhere in particular to go, all the time in the world to achieve this!
Day 1, Sunday 24th May: Orwell to Deben
19.2nm
Tides, during this cruise, featured early morning and early evening HWs, heading towards neaps.
I left the mooring at 1330 heading downstream with the intention of setting out to sea, towards the Deben. Winds in Harwich harbour were easterly and touching F4 leading to quite loppy seas. So I decided to run with the tide down the Stour waiting for conditions to improve. Winds duly abated and I turned back under motor, using the beginning ebb, back through Harwich harbour, cutting the corner at Landguard Point and then setting sail towards the Deben. The sea state had much improved by the time I reached Woodbridge Haven.
Woodbridge Haven
Winds were now NW and very light. I wouldn't have made much progress beating against the ebb, so motored to a favourite anchorage on the NW shore near Bowships Reach.
Anchorage on the Deben at Bowships Reach
Deben sunset
Day 2, Monday 25th May: Deben to Snape
38.1nm
Ordinarily, I don't bother with curtains in the cabin. One reason for this is so that I wake when daylight arrives and don't lose a moment. Today was no exception. I left the anchorage at 0430, before breakfast, and enjoying the last hour or so of the flood up to Woodbridge, beating into NW breeze.
Woodbridge once again!
The good reason for being on the Deben today was to rendezvous with the previous owner of Daisy II who was a part of the Cape Cutter rally which had reached Waldringfield. A return run downstream led to me sailing past his boat at 0810. Not having the heart to wake his crew, I stretched out time by sailing on to The Rocks and then beating back upstream against the tide where captain and crew had finally surfaced.
Following a pleasant coffee aboard a Cape Cutter - splendid boats, perhaps more to write about these another time - I needed to press on with the day's objective which was to reach Orford Haven in time to use the flood up to Snape.
Good facilities at Felixstowe Ferry
I was leaving the Deben at LW, but there was plenty of water. Out at sea, the flood had already set, so the trip up the coast was against the tide. In order to speed things up, the outboard was deployed about half way up the coast until safely in the Ore where, against a NE breeze, sail was set for a beat up the Ore and Alde as far as Aldeburgh. Turning west at Aldeburgh, winds abated so I motored along to the evening anchorage at Iken - photographed at the start of this article.
View back towards Iken Church, overseeing the ominously named 'Troublesome Reach'
Further view of Iken Cliffs
Day 3, Tuesday 26th May: Snape to Walton Backwaters, via Stour
Today, it transpired that Daisy II put to the test that notion of sailing all day, without a single break. Just how far can a Drascombe coaster go? Here's an answer:
48.3nm
This will surely be one of the longer daily doses of cruising, lasting from 0700 at Snape until 2100 in Landermere Creek. Still, it's 14 hours at an average speed of 3.5knts which is not unusual. There were plenty of moments of much greater speeds, particularly with the ebb down the Alde/Ore and then along the coast in a pleasant F3 easterly breeze. Returning to the Stour, and an unsuccessful attempt to find a lunchtime berth at Halfpenny Pier, I pressed on upstream, lunching on the hoof (?) as it were! Along the way, I heard the boat Lucy Laver call the coastguard on VHF confirming its successful trip from Ramsgate up to Harwich. That sounded like quite a trip, even more so when the very boat appeared alongside me off Erwarton Bay.
Lucy Lavers
She looked an interesting boat so, since returning home, I've looked her up. She was returning from the 75th anniversary of the 'retreat from Dunkirk'. She was one of the boats that participated in the real thing. Extraordinary. Her website is here.
Winds gradually abated so that, at a point short of Mistley, a few hours short of HW, I found myself drifting upstream under the power of the tide alone. There still wasn't quite the depth to plough on to Manningtree, except along the channel along Mistley Quay. I didn't fancy this, so turned back downstream, initially against the flood. Eventually, the easterly breeze picked up and I had a wonderful long beat back towards Harwich harbour. Off Parkeston Quay, I realised that it would require a night sail and some stamina to continue sailing to the Backwaters. I had also experienced trouble during the day with the outboard being very reluctant to start. I have a feeling it may be a carburettor issue. So, an 'Italian tune-up' seemed a good idea. Make or break!
Returning past Harwich Lifeboat Station, Lucy Lavers was seen mixing with the new boats!
The ear-splittingly noisy trip round to the Backwaters took 75 minutes!
Day 4, Wednesday 27th May: return to mooring
10.6nm
Well, this is a well-rehearsed route. Winds, today, were NW so pleasant until reaching Harwich when, again, there wasn't sufficient strength to justify a long beat into the harbour and back to the mooring against the ebb. So, following on from yesterday's ear-splitting ordeal, I put the outboard to the test again. It still isn't starting properly, seemingly not starting within four pulls with choke pulled out, but then starting second pull with choke pushed back in. It's never behaved like that before. Better that it starts any way than not at all...
Ceol na Mara and Daisy II beached at Felixstowe Ferry
The long-awaited East Coast Cruise in numbers:
147 nautical miles
224 tacks
5 rivers (Orwell, Ore, Alde, Butley, Deben)
9 boats at various times (Coasters: Daisy II, Virginia, Martha; Dabber: Ceol na Mara; Longboat: Five Alive; Deben Luggers: Debutante, Deben Lugger; Lugger: Cutty Stark; Norfolk Gipsy: anon!)
10 skippers/crew
several pubs and restaurants
incalculable pleasure by all involved!
Overall 147nm; season's total 409.3nm
July 28th: Orwell to the Ore
In a fresh F5 southerly breeze, coasters Daisy II and Virginia worked their way in difficult conditions from the Orwell, against the tide and north east along the coast to Orford Haven. Deben Lugger Debutante and Lugger Cutty Stark both had teething problems, by way of broken rigs and rigging whilst launching at Suffolk Yacht Harbour - it was to be several days before we managed to meet up again.
During the sea passage, I cheated by keeping the outboard on tick-over, whilst flying a jib.
On the way to Orford Haven: Daisy II in heavy following seas just beyond the entrance to the Deben
Virginia's skipper used wind power alone. Following seas were heavy and photos don't really do it justice - it was one of those passages where it was much more comfortable looking forward rather than aft... However, the following film clip gives an idea - Virginia in the distance, somewhere off the coast between the entrance to the Deben and the Ore.
We entered the Ore an hour or so before HW. Once inside, it was with some relief that I looked back towards the tricky conditions at the entrance. This video clip, looking back from inside the Ore towards Orford Haven, just about shows the breakers which we had to negotiate.
We then had a rapid broad reach up the Ore to Orford where we had a planned rendezvous with Coaster: Martha and Dabber Ceol na Mara, borrowing a mooring for the night.
Sunset over Orford - a peaceful end to a rocky sea passage.
July 28; Orwell to the Ore; 21.5nm
July 29th - sailing in the Ore; passage to Snape
After a lazy start, we were joined by longboat Five Alive and a Deben Lugger. We took the ebb sailing against a fresh F4 south westerly, working our way anticlockwise around the Havergate Island nature reserve, and stopping for elevenses on a shingle beach off Orford Ness.
Drascombes off Orford Ness
The trip up to Snape began with a broad reach up the Ore...
Broad reach up the Ore, past Havergate Island
...but was punctuated by stormy F7 gusty winds which struck at Aldeburgh. We had no choice but to borrow a mooring and see this one out. Finally, we decided to remove as many wind resistant effects, including mizzen masts, as we motored up the Alde to Snape, negotiating the winding channel marked out by a series of withies. Fortunately, there was more shelter as we edged towards our destination, and conditions were really quite mild as we worked our way alongside Iken cliffs.
At Snape, we were treated to a venerable display of Dabber skipper-action, including rowing, swimming and showering!
Dabber captain demonstrating the many facets of dabbering...
Drascombes moored at Snape
Sunset at Snape
July 29: Ore to the Alde and Snape; 18.8nm
July 30th: Snape Maltings to the River Butley
An early start, coinciding with HW saw us depart from Snape, retracing our way along the winding channels and finally setting sail opposite Iken Church. The plan was to wend our way back to Aldeburgh for breakfast.
Dabber Ceol na Mara sailing past Iken Church
Drascombes sailing down the Alde
At Aldeburgh (Slaughden Quay), coaster Martha pulled out, while various jobs were accomplished and fasts broken. Winds had, once more, built up so we motored south west along the Ore to Orford.
longboat Five Alive on the Ore
Even I could recognise this bird strutting its way along the mud banks.
Curlews on the mud banks
At Orford, rain and strong winds set in for the afternoon, so we sought permission to shelter on a pontoon outside Orford Sailing Club, making use of facilities at Orford, including a welcome pub and an excellent tea room. Whilst the officers were clearly not present, those members at the club had no problem with our request. We were pleased to move aside to allow RNLI access, bringing ashore a serious injury case - this simply substantiated our decision to shelter.
Sailing club pontoons at Orford
Ultimately, however, it was disappointing to note the ensuing frosty tone set by certain representatives of the harbour authorities and the sailing club. Our intentions were clear, and made all the more necessary by the treacherous weather; it was right that we should stay put, but this was to the obvious consternation of certain individuals, simply because we remained longer than an hour and didn't physically remain with our boats, as their notice required. It is interesting to note the differing attitudes displayed by ports to visiting boats. A few days later, at Waldringfield, the authorities and sailing club couldn't have been more welcoming, as detailed below. Visitors generally spend money in local amenities - we wouldn't have been able to do likewise had we stayed with our boats! Moreover, our use of mooring facilities was presumably facilitated by local boats simultaneously round the corner using corresponding vacant moorings left empty by cruising boats.
At around 5pm, the weather cleared, as per the forecast and a wonderful evening ensued making possible our planned evening cruise with the tide up the River Butley.
Daisy II on the Butley
We found a wonderful anchorage on the ensuing ebb, in one case rather enforced by the act of going aground.
Dabber Ceol na Mara rowing to its preferred anchoring point
I enjoyed this panorama of sunset on the Butley, even if it makes the gunwhales look rather peculiar...
July 30: Snape to the Butley; 16.1nm
July 31st: from the Ore to the Deben
Today, coasters Virginia and Daisy II took the coastal passage from the Ore to the Deben. Other participants made a land-based transit, by means of car and trailer.
A seal guarding the entrance to the River Butley
As had been the case all week, forecast wind conditions, unrelentingly southerly/south-westerly, suggested we would be in for a bumpy trip. In the event, winds funnelling up the Ore from its haven were far stronger than anything experienced initially at sea. Once we had punched a way through the expected outfalls near the red buoy at the entrance, winds completely dropped and we had a frustrating half hour or so where I left the engine on tick-over and drifted down the coast at a speed of around 1kt. Ultimately, however, winds did get going once again, and I had a two-legged beat with fractional jib and full main. About two-thirds of the passage complete, conditions were becoming more testing, and I had temporarily lost sight of Virginia, so I hove to and dropped the main. Subsequently, both boats back in touch, we motored the remaining distance into the Deben, and pulled up for a late lunch at Felixstowe Ferry.
Attendant coasters at Felixstowe Ferry. Virginia, as might be noticed, features three round portholes either side of the coachwork, whereas Daisy II has a pair. To my mind, these are far more attractive than the usual oval window given to coasters. As far as I am aware, only a few other coasters feature such round portholes. (I would be interested in featuring pictures/details of any such boats in a future article should their owners wish to contact me.)
Felixstowe Ferry panoramic pic
After lunch, winds enabled a rare opportunity for broad reaching and running and, with the ebb, we made swift progress upstream to our intended destination, Waldringfield, rejoining the fleet. Once there, both sailing club and harbour master went out of their way to welcome us. We were invited to eat and drink at the clubhouse, use facilities and given a free mooring by the harbour master. All of this hospitality was warmly received.
July 31: Ore to the Deben; 19.4nm
August 1st; Waldringfield to Felixstowe Ferry to Woodbridge
In terms of sailing conditions, today was undoubtedly the finest day of the trip, with wall-to-wall sunshine and pleasant F3/4 southerly/south-easterly winds. Ideal for Drascombing.
Ceol na Mara leaving Waldringfield
Alex Haig's Norfolk Gypsy
The photo at the head of this post shows Daisy II and Ceol na Mara on the shingle shoreline at Felixstowe Ferry following a very pleasant beat downstream with the ebb. Virginia's skipper was indisposed but we were joined by Alex Haig's Norfolk Gypsy which is moored at Waldringfield.
Lunch at Felixstowe Ferry, together with ample time to wander around was most welcome. Additionally, I had a chance to inspect the hull of Daisy II which, having been in the water since the Wells rally at the beginning of June, was pleasingly free of weed.
On the return trip, winds were easing, though still provided pleasant sailing.
Running up the Deben
At Waldringfield, we picked up a still 'sub-weather' Virginia and continued to Tide Mill Quay at Woodbridge, which we slipped into as soon as the tide allowed.
Drascombes at Tide Mill Quay, Woodbridge
August 1: Waldringfield to Felixstowe Ferry to Woodbridge; 15.8nm
August 2nd, family visit!
Sailing, as I do, single-handed for the majority of the year, it is a rare treat to have the company of both wife and son. Today, I left Woodbridge in time to pick them up at Waldringfield at 11am. The morning featured sharp thunderstorms, but very light winds. Today was as much to do with drifting as it was with sailing. Once more, we dried out at Felixstowe Ferry, and were later joined by Ceol na Mara and, at last, Deben Lugger Debutante whose owners had been beset with various breakages. At Felixstowe Ferry, I managed some video of the latter, and some snaps of both weaving their way amongst the various moorings.
Family time!
Anchored!
Deben lugger Debutante
Ceol na Mara and Debutante weaving through moorings opposite Bawdsey
Ceol na Mara coming in to land!
Gulls!
Debutante sailing towards the mouth of the Deben
At the end of the day, we returned, once more, to Woodbridge for a final night at Tide Mill Quay, arriving under cover of darkness!
Dabber accommodation (in case anyone had wondered!)
August 2: Woodbridge to Felixstowe Ferry and back; 17.6nm
August 3rd, Woodbridge to "The Rocks"
As is often the case prior to the final day's long return-cruise, a lazy, penultimate day! Ceol na Mara pulled out in the morning. Other skippers enjoyed a lethargic brunch at a hostelry in Woodbridge!
Drascombers 'in action'
A local swan gate-crashing the party...
Coasters Virginia and Daisy II then sailed to a recognised anchorage, "The Rocks", just downstream from Waldringfield to see out the afternoon.
"The Rocks" anchorage
In the evening, we returned to Waldringfield for a pleasant feast in the pub, and to pick up a final night's mooring.
August 3: Woodbridge to "The Rocks"; 6.1nm
August 4th: return to the Orwell
Before departing the Deben, tides were right to take us up to the navigational head of the river - although certain scullers would dispute this, demonstrating their ease at rowing through the arched bridge.
The navigational head of the River Deben at Woodbridge - although, as we agreed, the bridge wasn't wooden!
Following elevenses, it was time to roll up our sleeves and tackle the journey back home. This trip also offered further opportunities to capture coaster Virginia in sailing action.
Coaster Virginia
Winds were forecast F4/5 southerly and were true to form. The sail through the Deben entrance was accomplished at around half-ebb and we were able to avoid the worst of the outfalls by veering south prior to the red cardinal buoy at the entrance. Once out at sea, again winds were less severe - once more demonstrating that tendency to funnel along a river (even in flat East Anglia) but to be more consistent in open water. We had a terrific sail along the coast past Felixstowe which was indulging in its own air show - perhaps we provided an interesting side-show, or maybe even stole the show... It was too difficult to take shots of the spectacle since conditions were too rough. I have subsequently received a couple of distant pictures of the two coasters sailing along the Felixstowe shoreline. These were obviously taken prior to hoisting the main.
Coasters Daisy II and Virginia sailing along the Felixstowe shoreline
It was an exhilarating sail, particularly when rounding Languard Point on the return to Harwich harbour. Steep following seas made for tricky helming, even as the flood-tide began, and, having cut the corner, I almost surfed through the harbour at speeds regularly in excess of 7 knots! Coaster Virginia took a wider route in and fell behind.
Once more back at my mooring at Pin Mill, I pictured Virginia as her skipper called by for a farewell at the end of a fantastic cruise!
This is a log of sailing activities aboard Daisy II, a 22ft Drascombe Coaster No.280. Formerly named Aquarius, she was built in July 1997 by Honnor Marine(UK) Ltd of Totnes, Devon. The original Daisy, a Devon Lugger, was purchased in 2005 following an unexpectedly early opportunity to realise a mid-life crisis! Daisy II, with cabin, afforded more scope for overnight stops, and was purchased at the end of 2006.
For several seasons she was moored at Pin Mill on the River Orwell, Suffolk. More recently, the trailer sailing option, utilising a versatile ‘roller coaster’ road trailer, has extended the sailing range. Over the years, we have sailed from various locations off the south coast from Cornwall to Hampshire, a number of inland reservoirs and the Norfolk Broads. However, her key stamping ground is the east coast, usually based around the Harwich area and reaching destinations ranging from North Kent up to Southwold, whilst also launching on the North Norfolk coast at Wells next the Sea. Most recently, a trip from Harwich to Whitby has served only further to whet the appetite: perhaps, one day, Daisy II might complete her journey, in small stages of course, around the UK!
